How to begin what may be my last post from Firenze, Italy? It is certain that we are leaving Firenze on June 10th. There is a little uncertainty when we will return. It is certain that we will miss our Florentine family that has adopted us…the Gambis. It is also certain that we look forward to reconnecting with our family in the States…as well as our many friends that we left behind when we embarked on this life adventure. We’re uncertain how we will fit into the world we left 15 months ago that has changed so much…or so we’ve been told. There is a degree of uncertainty about how we will experience San Francisco and our apartment compared to cobble stones and piazzas of our adopted city of Firenze…like comparing these two ‘logos’.
As much as we have enjoyed our view of the old church from our Firenze terrace…we are certain to enjoy once again the view from our San Francisco balcony…and the bay is probably older than the Duomo.
A list of likes and dislikes of either Firenze or San Francisco could go on for many pages. I think it is much better to completely embrace both cities with all the wonder and charm, foibles and challenges that they both have. No place is perfect…however there are some places that you can fall in love with…places that keep calling you back. RoJean and I have found ours…we hope that our family and friends can find theirs.
…ieri…
Seems like we’ve been on a mad tear since my last blog post. We did a short trip to Germany to visit with Karyn and Will…who moved to Rodenbach, Germany last November. We got to see a small part of their new world…
And then a few days in Wiesbaden to say goodbye to RoJean’s sister Denise and Brian.
Not to be out done by la Fenice in Venice, another famous opera venue was a must…la Scala in Milano. Again while Ro was soaking up operatic culture, I was wandering the byways of Milan with Marco Ragaini, and then together we saw a bit of Milan by daylight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Scala
Back in Firenze Pasqua (Easter) was upon us and it was time for the annual ritualistic crashing of the symbolic dove (colomba) into the cart (carro), symbolizing a bountiful future harvest…the only in Firenze event affectionately known as Scoppio del Carro. The dove flew…the cart exploded…and the crowd roared their approval. It’s true…I saw it all on the TV news. Last year’s photo shoot was sufficient for me. Here a link to those wonderful photos from 2016…https://joemessina.smugmug.com/PrivateGalleries/Italy/Scoppio-del-Carro/
Staying in Italy an extra few months beyond our planned 12 was partly due to the Spring of 2016 being really horrible…cold (40s) and rainy all the way till mid June. So we have been delighted that Spring 2017 has been more ‘normal’. Long stretches of warm (60s) sunny days…interspersed with short periods of cool, rainy days. In the midst of a few warm days we made a dash to the seaside near Forte di Marmi with the Gambis as our hosts. And how was the seaside in April you might ask? Well, since the ‘season’ doesn’t officially start until June 1st…most restaurants are still closed…the umbrellas (tendi) are just being put out…waves were large…water was cold…and it wasn’t as warm as it was in Firenze. And we had a wonderful time with our friends… https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forte_dei_Marmi
The seaside was immediately followed by a visit from a longtime friend, Adriana, from the area around Santiago, Chile. She was traveling with friends doing a whirlwind tour of Europe and managed to squeeze in a few days to visit Firenze.
Next came the blooming (really, not derogatory) irises that can overwhelm the English Cemetery here in Florence. Among notable foreigners this smallish cemetery is the final resting place of Elizabeth Barrett Browning. One can only assume that Ms Browning is enjoying the annual iris bloom as much as we did. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Cemetery,_Florence
…oggi…
A common DOUBLE treat here in Firenze happened when we visited the Palazzo Bardini with Silvia. In our time in Firenze we had managed to miss this wonderful place…palazzo, museum, gardens. On this summery afternoon there was a string trio playing Beethoven. I’d like to say that the selection were my Ludwig favorites, but sadly I’m not that well versed. The venue was two connected rooms with walk-outs to garden terraces…and there was the Duomo…standing proudly and decisively in the center of Firenze below our hillside position. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/italy/florence/attractions/villa-e-giardino-bardini/a/poi-sig/1157719/360059
Next was a follow-up to the ‘friendly’ best Ragu Competition. I initiated the ‘competition’ a few months ago as I was learning the intricate simplicity of preparing a Florentine ragu. Ragu is a traditional and basic pasta sauce (sugo), known to every Tuscan….immigrants like me, not so much. Some ground meat, a little tomato and a few aromatic veggies…how difficult can it be. Well after 6 attempts and 6 different results, I thought I was ready to find my place on the Gambi family Ragu Chart which was made by me. With Francesco being the ‘official’ judge (appropriate since he’s an attorney) and his mother (Mamma Gambi) already holding a reverential spot very near the TOP of the chart…me and my ragu came in significantly below Mammas. (However, even as lowly as my ragu scored…after multiple tastings…it was ALL eaten). http://www.tuscookany.com/blog/ragu-is-there-a-perfect-recipe-for-this-delicious-meat-sauce/
After hearing the history of the competition noted above, our friend and native Florentine, Stefano Lecci decided he wanted to cast HIS ragu into the competitive mix. Sunday May 7th was designated for the latest round of ragu eating…I mean competing. Stefano was confident in the kitchen as we arrived with the ‘judge’. A few libations stimulated everyone’s salivary glands and there was even a full table, pasta twirl before segundo and dolce courses. The ‘judge’ was completely impartial and not swayed by pleadings from the chef or a second helping of my cheesecake. Francesco’s final decision of Stefano’s ragu was…better than mine, but not as good as his Mamma’s. (That could have been a SURE bet!)
Predicting the emergence of a new artist is not so easy…especially in the cradle of Italian art named Florence. Yet an emergence has happened…right before my eyes in our humble apartment. Pooof! Not really…there was a tremendous amount of work, dedication and skill coming together for RoJean to share her new, stylized art with her family and friends. A new avocation? Certainly a wonderful expression of her adopted world to share with the rest of us…
As the ‘circle’ becomes complete, there begins a recurrence of what went before. A visit to the Corsini Gardens that we visited last year. This time without rain…
…domani…
Karyn and Will are driving down Memorial Day weekend for a final visit and to take back some pantry items that I haven’t used, as well as a collection of spices I accumulated over the last year…timo (thyme)…noci moscate (nutmeg)…cannella (cinnamon)…dragoncello (tarragon). Looking forward to seeing them before we leave and happy they are starting a new chapter of their lives in Europe.
As the coming days will be our last in Firenze for a while, I don’t want to drag out the inevitable. We are planning a few farewell lunches and dinners with our new Italian family and friends. Visiting some of our favorite ristoranti and gelaterie we have ‘discovered’. Maybe a pizza or two at Farina 00 and a few final pastries at Don Nino near the Duomo. Savoring those things that can’t be packed up and shipped back to San Francisco. Just in case it takes me some time to find a coffee or Parmesan like I’ve become accustomed to here in Tuscany…I will bring some with me to ease the transition.
The good news is…99% of our packing is done. We have nine duffles waiting to be picked up on June 1st…the same duffles…with mostly the same stuff that we brought here 15 months ago (as we packed, we decided that we barely used 50% of what we brought). The sad part has been watching the things that helped make Firenze our home here in Italy…slowly vanish into those nine bags. It seems these months of our lives have been reversed…ex-pats living (mostly) comfortably here in Florence…back to immigrants trying to find the Questura to register our presence in this foreign land…and now back to tourists living out of a suitcase in someone else’s apartment.
We know that these feelings will also pass…new friends will still be friends…old friends will be new again…new family will merge with old family…and San Francisco is awaiting our arrival on June 10th. And a short photo review…
What a lovely summary of a delightful, amazing 15 months.
To paraphrase Robert Frost, you took the path less traveled by and that made all the difference. Congratulations on choosing this unexpected adventure and taking us along with you. No doubt, this chapter of your life has been far more than you hoped and imagined. It certainly has “made all the difference.”
We’re so happy that you had such a wonderful experience, and look forward to seeing you upon your return.